![]() It will depend on whether the 10 degree angle is towards you or away from you. Again I remind you to be careful of which side of this line you will make your slot. The edge of the cutting tool should be on this centre line. This is most important because this line is to be your reference and the main edge of the inner slot to be milled. NB - The line I scribed across the face of the fly cutter earlier is now horizontal as it is held in the tool post. The milling was straight forward but slow on a small lathe like this. When I screwed the bolts in tight the arrangement was very strong. (I wondered if I should have cut a flat surface along the shank to prevent the bar from any wobble but the bolts proved strong enough)Īs you can see in the images I had to countersink the holes in the square bar and turn down the bolt head diameters to fit within the bar width (the square bar needs to fit squarely in the tool post holder without interference from these bolt heads) The shank I drilled a 5.5mm hole for tapping a 6mm thread, and the square bar I drilled 6mm to slide the 6mm bolts through. As you can see from the images I drilled out the shank and the bar. I carefully measured and marked the distance between the holes on both the shank and the bar using a digital caliper. Having a V block would make this centre setup easy. This would give me a pretty good accuracy to drill the holes through the center of the shank. This will be the centre line to drill out the holes to support the square bar being fitted.Īs I don't have a V bock in my drill press vise I had to resort to carefully measuring the distance from the line down the shank of the part across to the two jaws of the vise. Then I turned the part around in the chuck and using the point on the shank, I scribed a line down the length of the shank. So, clamping the fly cutter shank in the 3 jaw chuck I scribed a line across its face (through the centre - this is important) and then without moving the 3 jaw chuck and marked a point on the shank of the part (so the line across the face and the mark on the shank are on the same plane). If you study the images and drawing, and think of the direction of the spinning cutting tool you will see that, because of the angle of the cutting tool, it can only be on the one side.Īs my lathe tool post can hold a square bar of 8 - 10mm in it I could mount a square bar along the shank of the fly cutter. The point of the cutter must lie along the centre line of the holder and it is crucial that you make the slot on the correct side of the centre line. Pay close attention, however, to the slot holding the cutting tool in place. I don't think the dimensions are critical. I have sort-of followed the design in this drawing. As I don't own a fly cutter I had to make one.ĭesigns and videos for fly cutters are aplenty so I chose to use one of the simple ideas which I could turn on my lathe and then work out how to make the tool holder slots. To do this I would need to hold the tailsock firmly on it's side on the cross slide and to use a fly cutter to do the skimming. After a lot of thought and browsing the Internet for a solution, and finding nothing, I decided to try and skim the upper base of the tailstock myself. It's about 1mm higher that the headstock centre which is unacceptable for long turning and drilling. The one problem, which I'm sorting out in this instructable, is to lower the height of the tailstock centre. I recently bought a cheap new 7" x 14" Chinese mini metal lathe and as I expected there were some problems with it. ![]() A need for a Fly Cutter to skim a surface down about 1mm and keep it flat.
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